Best Cruiser Skateboards for Getting Around
Not every skateboard is built for tricks. If you want something you can actually use to get from point A to point B — campus, neighborhood, errands — a cruiser skateboard is a completely different tool from the popsicle deck your friend kick-flips at the skate park. Cruisers are designed for comfort, maneuverability, and rolling efficiency, and once you try one for transportation, it’s hard to go back to walking short distances.
Whether you’re new to skating or just shopping smarter, this guide covers what makes a cruiser different, how to choose the right setup, and what to look for when picking your first or next board.
Cruiser vs. Popsicle: What’s Actually Different
The classic “popsicle” deck — symmetrical, narrow, with a nose and tail designed for ollies and flip tricks — is optimized for the skate park, not the sidewalk. Cruiser boards diverge from that template in a few meaningful ways that make them far more practical for riding around.
- Shape: Cruiser decks are often wider, sometimes asymmetrical, and come in a variety of shapes including pintails, drop-throughs, and classic old-school fish shapes. More platform under your feet means more stability and comfort.
- Trucks: Cruiser trucks are typically set up looser than street trucks, allowing for deeper turns and carving without lifting the front wheels. This makes navigating sidewalks and corners much more natural.
- Wheels: This is the biggest difference. Cruiser wheels are softer and larger than street wheels, and that changes everything about how the board rides on pavement.
Why Soft Wheels Change Everything
Skateboard wheel hardness is measured on a durometer scale — most street and park wheels run 99–101A (very hard). Cruiser wheels typically land in the 78A–87A range, which feels dramatically different underfoot.
Soft wheels grip pavement rather than sliding on it, absorb small cracks and pebbles without rattling your feet numb, and roll more smoothly over the imperfect surfaces you encounter on real streets. They’re notably slower than hard wheels on perfectly smooth indoor surfaces, but on actual city sidewalks and roads, they’re genuinely faster and more enjoyable because you’re not fighting every crack and expansion joint.
Wheel size also matters. Larger wheels — 60mm and up — roll over obstacles more easily and maintain speed between pushes better than smaller wheels. For transportation riding, 60–70mm soft wheels are the standard recommendation.
Wheel Bite: The One Gotcha
Bigger, softer wheels on a standard popsicle deck can cause “wheel bite” — where the wheel contacts the deck during sharp turns, stopping the board abruptly. To run larger wheels on an existing deck, you’ll need riser pads (cheap plastic spacers that go between the truck and deck) or looser truck settings. Boards sold specifically as cruisers are usually designed to accommodate the appropriate wheel size from the start.
Cruiser Sizes: Finding the Right Fit
Cruisers come in a wide range of sizes, and the right one depends on how you want to use it and your own physical proportions.
- Mini cruisers (6″–7.5″ wide): Ultra-portable, easy to carry, great for last-mile commuting or tossing in a backpack. Less stable at speed and trickier to learn on, but beloved for their packability.
- Standard cruisers (7.5″–9″ wide): The sweet spot for most riders. Wide enough to feel stable, compact enough to be nimble. Great for campus and neighborhood riding.
- Longboard-style cruisers (9″+, 28″+ length): Maximum stability and roll speed. Ideal if you’re covering longer distances or want the most comfortable, confidence-inspiring ride. Less maneuverable in tight spaces.
If you’re undecided, lean toward the wider side. A slightly oversized board is much easier to learn on than one that’s too narrow. For a deeper look at this from a learning perspective, see our guide to the easiest skateboard to learn on.
Who Cruisers Are Actually For
Cruiser skateboards have a broader appeal than many people expect. They’re not just for skaters who gave up on tricks — they attract a genuinely diverse group of riders:
- College students: Faster than walking, more maneuverable than a bike on crowded paths, easy to carry into class. Mini and standard cruisers dominate campuses for good reason.
- Casual adults: People who haven’t skated since their teens often find cruisers far more accessible than returning to a popsicle deck. The stability and smooth ride lower the barrier significantly.
- Commuters doing last-mile trips: If you get off a bus or train and have 10–15 minutes of walking, a cruiser cuts that to 3–5 minutes and is easy to carry on transit.
- Skaters who want something different: Even experienced street skaters often keep a cruiser for getting around between sessions.
For context on the broader history and culture of skateboarding that cruisers fit into, the Wikipedia entry on skateboards gives a solid overview of how the form has evolved.
Complete Boards vs. Building Custom
For most people buying their first cruiser, a complete board is the right call. Completes are assembled, tested, and ready to ride — and at most price points they include reasonably good components that work well together. You’re not making compromises that matter much at the entry and mid levels.
Building custom makes sense if you have specific requirements — a particular deck shape you love, a preference for a specific truck brand, or wheel specifications outside the typical range. It also lets you upgrade individual components over time rather than replacing the whole board.
Budget-wise, decent complete cruisers start around $60–$80 and get noticeably better in quality and ride feel up to about $150–$180. Above that, you’re paying for premium brands and materials that enthusiasts appreciate but beginners rarely notice.
What to Prioritize When You’re Shopping
With so many options, it helps to have a clear priority order. For transportation-focused cruiser shopping:
- Get the wheel spec right first — 78A–87A durometer, 60mm+ size. This matters more than anything else for how the board rides on real pavement.
- Choose a deck width that matches your shoe size and confidence level. When in doubt, go wider.
- Don’t over-optimize on trucks at the entry level. Standard 5″ or 5.25″ trucks on a cruiser will serve beginners well.
- Check that bearings are included and are at least ABEC-5 rated. Cheap bearings make even a good setup feel sluggish.
Ready to compare specific boards? Our skateboard shop has cruisers filtered by size, style, and price so you can find the right match without digging through pages of street decks.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a cruiser skateboard and a regular skateboard?
Cruiser skateboards use softer, larger wheels (typically 78A–87A durometer, 60mm+), wider decks, and looser trucks optimized for smooth pavement riding and sharp turns. Regular popsicle decks use small, hard wheels designed for technical tricks at the skate park.
What wheel hardness should I get for a cruiser skateboard?
For cruising on streets and sidewalks, choose wheels in the 78A–87A durometer range. These absorb cracks and rough pavement much better than hard street wheels (99–101A), making the ride noticeably smoother and more comfortable.
Can I put cruiser wheels on my existing skateboard?
Yes, but you may need riser pads to prevent wheel bite — where the larger wheel contacts the deck during sharp turns. Add 1/8″ or 1/4″ risers between the truck and deck when running wheels 60mm and larger on a standard popsicle deck.
What size cruiser skateboard is best for a beginner?
Beginners typically do best with a wider deck, 7.75″ to 8.5″, which provides more stability underfoot. A complete board in that range with soft wheels pre-installed is the easiest starting point — no component matching required.
Are cruiser skateboards good for commuting?
Yes — cruisers excel at short commutes of 1–3 miles on reasonably smooth pavement. They’re faster than walking, easier to carry than a bike, and far more comfortable on real-world surfaces than standard street skateboards.
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